A mortgage point — also called a discount point — is an upfront fee of 1% of the loan amount, paid at closing to permanently reduce your interest rate. In exchange, the rate typically drops about 0.25% per point, though the exact discount varies by lender and market. The question is never "are points good?" It is always "will I stay in this loan long enough to earn the money back?" Here is the math, a worked example, and when the answer is yes or no.
Buying points is prepaying interest. You pay cash now — 1% of the loan per point — and in return the lender lowers your rate for the entire life of the loan. It is the mirror image of a "lender credit," where you accept a higher rate in exchange for the lender paying your closing costs.
One point always equals 1% of the loan amount. On a $400,000 loan, one point is $4,000. Two points is $8,000. The rate discount per point is not fixed — it floats with the market — but a useful planning number is roughly 0.25% per point.
Take a $400,000, 30-year loan at 6.5%. You are offered the option to buy one point for $4,000 to drop the rate to 6.25%:
| No points | One point | |
|---|---|---|
| Rate | 6.5% | 6.25% |
| Upfront cost | $0 | $4,000 |
| Monthly P&I | $2,528 | $2,462 |
| Monthly savings | — | ~$66 |
Divide the cost by the savings: $4,000 ÷ $66 = about 61 months. That is your break-even point — just over 5 years. If you keep the loan longer than that, every month afterward is pure profit; you will have saved far more than the $4,000 you spent.
Over the full 30 years, the point saves roughly $23,700 in interest on this loan. Spend $4,000 once, save $23,700 — but only if you actually stay in the loan.
Points win in these situations:
Points are a bad deal in these situations:
Often buyers face a choice between buying points and putting more down. In most cases, more down payment beats points. Reaching 20% down removes PMI — a $150 to $400 monthly saving that points cannot match — and reduces the loan balance at the same time. Only after PMI is off the table should points enter the conversation.
Points buy your rate down; lender credits let the lender pay your closing costs in exchange for a higher rate. The choice depends on your cash position and time horizon:
Neither is "cheaper" in absolute terms — each moves money between the closing table and the monthly payment. Your time horizon decides which direction is right.
Roughly 0.25%, though it varies by lender and market. Ask for the exact rate with and without points and run the numbers.
Often yes — points paid on a primary residence can be deductible as mortgage interest, but the rules depend on your situation. Confirm with a tax professional.
Usually more down payment, if it gets you to 20% equity and removes PMI. Once PMI is gone, compare a point against the return of keeping the cash.
Yes, the same math applies — buy points only if you will stay in the new loan past the break-even point.
Compare rates with and without points on the HomeMath mortgage calculator, and watch how the break-even shifts as the rate changes.
Reading is step one. Step two is running your own numbers — taxes, insurance, PMI and all.
Open the mortgage calculator